I've always enjoyed working with wood. There is a great satisfaction in creating something beautiful and lasting and then having the opportunity to step back and admire it. Wood is the perfect medium. It has it's own inherent beauty and can be molded and sculpted to become almost anything we can imagine...
When I first saw a hollow wood surfboard I was hooked.
I was amazed at the innovation and creativity required to build such a complex shape that was not only visually stunning but completely surfable. I had to build one for myself...
I began researching hollow wood surfboards and the builders who had left their mark on the craft...each one adding something or in some cases completely forging new paths. Some of my favorites would be Tom Wegener, Paul Jensen, Roy Stewart, Danny Hess, the guys at Grain, Siebert... and there are many others. Each is a standout for a different reason.
My first board was a great learning experience...a great roller coaster ride. Watching it all come together was uber exciting... Trying to get the rails on was uber frustrating... But in the end, I had a beautiful ride.
And then tragedy struck. I took it out for a few hours on a waist high day and as I was heading in I fell off the board. From what I can tell, the nose dug into the sand at the same the leash went tight, and the wave crashed on the middle of the board. When I picked the board up it was heavy...and then I saw a huge linear tear and a broken nose block.
So I began looking for ways I could strenthen the structural integrity of my boards without adding a ton of weight. I think I have found the solution and am working in this new frame design right now...
At this point I am not sure I am looking to be a stand out, I think I'd rather just take what I have learned and create a line-up from my own perspective, using my own shapes and frame designs.
I am now working on a 6' retro fish but may take a break for a while. I have some new equipment on it's way, and I'll be spending some time getting it dialed in and getting the shop organized. We'll see what happens.
